Almost every time we travel in Turkey I try to find konak hotels, usually the Turkish equivalent of American Victorian Bed and Breakfasts. ‘Konak’ is the name for traditional Ottoman-style wooden villas found in older neighborhoods across Anatolia (and I believe the Balkans?). Konak hotels are generally family-run restored complexes with sumptuous rooms, plenty of sitting areas, solid breakfasts, and a high degree of personalized service. Of course, some of them are terrible too.
But the FRZ in the old neighborhood of Eskişehir was exceptional. For 110 lira (about $47) we stayed in sumptuous double rooms fitted with modern Ottoman-style furnishings on the second floor of a restored wooden mansion.
(A single room; ours was too strewn with layers of winter clothes for me to take a picture)
The reception was extremely affable and helpful, letting us check out late when we went looking for a missing car key the second day (note: care the 1 lira massage chairs don’t shake your keys out of your pocket…), the bathroom was stocked with spa-quality toiletries and bathrobes that smelled like Aveda. And the three course-breakfast (fresh cheese, olives, organic jams and spreads, fresh honey and cream, eggs, an assortment of parries, dried figs and black apricots, arugula, heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, tahini) included in the room price was one of the best I’ve had in Turkey.